Animal Behavior
MAKING A BETTER LIFE FOR YOU AND YOUR
PET
by Carol Campbell, Heather Hamilton, and Valerie Kimbark
GREAT QUESTIONS * GREAT SOLUTIONS
Q: Do you dread taking your dog for his visit to the vet clinic because he
shakes and quakes in fear?
Q: Does your puppy vomit and hide under the seat or frantically try to escape
when riding in the car?
Q: Do you have to pry him loose or keep a death grip on his collar when he
encounters another animal?
Q: How does your puppy react to his environment?
Dogs, being social animals need the chance to have positive experiences with you,
your family, other people and animals. Equally important are events and situations, such
as visiting the vet clinic, taking trips, and riding in the car. All of these are events
which your pet will encounter and be exposed to on a regular basis. How your pet reacts to
these new experiences depend on how well he has been socialized.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS...
Q: What is socialization?
A: Socialization is the process of providing an animal with different
experiences and events which he may encounter in his daily routine. You should enhance
this process by allowing your dog many various opportunities with different people,
sights, sounds and smells. This will enable your pet to become comfortable with new
experiences, making your puppy a more enjoyable and friendly companion.
Q: Why do I need to socialize my puppy?
A: Socialization allows a puppy to become familiar with different situations,
people, and other animals; socialization helps diminish and/or eliminate aggression and
excessive fear of people and unfamiliar places, animals, sounds, situations, smells, and
being touched.
Q: When should I socialize my puppy?
A: The socialization period begins around three weeks of age and lasts until the
puppy is about sixteen weeks old.
Q: How do I socialize my puppy?
A: The socialization of your puppy began first by his mother and littermates.
This helped your puppy learn good doggy manners and how to communicate with dogs. Now you
can help your puppy continue to learn about his new environment by exposing him to many
different experiences. For example, riding in a car, visiting the veterinary hospital,
playing with small children, and meeting other animals. Socialization allows your puppy to
become familiar and comfortable in different environments. The exposure must be positive,
rewarding and non-threatening fun.
Q: What to do if your animal shows signs of fear?
A: If your dog exhibits fearful behavior like:
- hiding, trembling, barking, cowering, aggression, or signs of stress such as:
- yawning, scratching, licking, not accepting food, How should you respond? Your response
is very important! It can either diminish or reinforce the behavior.
As a caring owner your first instinct is to comfort your puppy, however this actually
reinforces the fear. As your puppy is comforted he is rewarded. Behavior that is rewarded
is more likely to be repeated. It is best to ignore the fearful behavior and reward even
the smallest effort your pet makes towards overcoming his fear. It is also important to
make sure your reward is truly a reward to your dog. You can use food, toys, or attention
as long as the reward is something that will motivate your dog to repeat the behavior. You
will want to expose your puppy repeatedly to these stimuli. This may necessitate creating
events which are fearful to your dog in order to help him become desensitized to them. Do
not allow your animal to withdraw when he is showing signs of fear as this will become
self reinforcing. Always be sure to reward only the behavior you want repeated. If the
puppy has a sudden frightening experience, immediately get a happy, excited tone of voice
and a confident attitude. Employ the "Jolly
Routine" and say, "Wow, that was fun, let's do it again!!!"
Helpful Hints...
- This process takes time, be patient and take it slow.
- Don't expect immediate results: your pet may
repeat fearful behavior more frequently in the beginning, especially if it has been
reinforced. Just remember to continue to reward only the behavior you want repeated and
ignore behavior you want eliminated.
- Watch for signs of excessive fear reactions. Examples:
- cowering down
- ears flat against head
- rolled over on back
- no eye contact
- urinates when approached
- aggressiveness {growling, snapping, showing teeth, lips pulled back, and barking}
- severe reactions to loud noises
These behaviors may signal a more extreme fearful reaction which is known as a phobia.
If you are concerned that your pet may be exhibiting fearful behavior and you are unsure
of whether it is normal fear or a phobic response be sure to contact your local
veterinarian.
For Further Information:
Contact your local veterinarian or
The College of Veterinary Behaviorists, c/o Dr. Kathrine Houpt, Department of
Physiology, Cornell University, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ithaca, New York 14853
Other Resources:
Man Meets Dog - Conrad Lorenz
What All Good Dogs Should Know: The Sensible Way To Train - Jack Volhard
and Melissa Bartlett
by Stormi Burgoyne, Sherri Drapeau and Martha Hemmler
Barking is a normal behavior for dogs, but in many circumstances it is a major source
of complaints from owners or neighbors. Dogs are very social animals and in the wild they
live in packs. Today, dogs see their owners and families as their pack and often bark to
communicate or to warn of danger. It is a normal behavior that cannot be eliminated, but
can be controlled. There are many reasons that a dog will bark. Some of these include:
- Territorial Barking
- Barking in response to a stimulus
- Barking when left alone
- Rewarding Barking Unintentionally
- Aggressive Barking
Territorial Barking
Dogs are territorial by nature and will defend their territory from anyone or anything
that they think is threatening. One of the ways they do this is by barking. For example,
when a stranger enters or passes by the dog’s house, the dog feels its territory has
been invaded, and therefore barks. To control this type of barking, there are some things
that the owner can do:
- Change the environment - if the dog barks outside, then bring it inside. If it barks in
the front yard, move it to the backyard.
- Increase exposure to the stimulus that is causing the dog to bark until it no longer
barks - that is, if the dog is barking at the mailman, have the mailman gradually come
closer to the dog while in its territory. Reward the dog (using food or praise) for not
barking until the dog no longer barks when the mailman enters or leaves the dog’s
territory (his yard).
- Interrupt the barking dog by shaking a can of pennies or marbles to get its attention
and then teach it something else to do - for example, if the dog is barking at a squirrel
in the yard, interrupt the barking by using the shaker can, then catch the dog’s
attention with its favorite toy or bone and teach it to play fetch instead of barking at
the squirrels.
- Use a shock collar - this must be done so that the dog does not associate the shock with
you, but with the barking. You can control the collars from a distance or there are
collars that elicit a shock at loud noise (the bark). This method can be used for most
barking problems. It is recommended that you try the other suggestions first. Shock
collars have some limitations, such as, they cannot be used in small dogs, they may cause
injuries and may be too strong of a punishment for a timid or shy dog and may lead to
other behavior problems.
- A citronella collar (ABS System) may also be used. This consists of a collar with an
attached compartment filled with citronella spray. It releases a spray of citronella at
the sound of a barking dog. Most dogs find this to be a very undesirable smell and it
often stops their barking.
- Lastly, neutering your dog may make it less territorial, and therefore may decrease the
barking.
These techniques may help you to control your dog’s territorial barking if you are
consistent and work gradually.
Barking in Response to a Stimulus
Stimulus barking is caused when there is something in a dog’s environment that
causes it to bark. Some of these stimuli include: other animals, thunder, street noise,
cars, etc. Some ways to control this type of barking include the following:
- Identify the stimulus (what is making the dog bark) and remove it - that is, if the dog
barks at a child’s toy, simply get rid of it or prevent the dog from hearing it. This
method may be impossible if the dog is barking at thunder, therefore you need to try
another method.
- Expose the dog to the stimuli causing the barking continuously until the dog ceases
barking. Then reward the dog with food or praise. For example, if the dog is barking at
thunder, tape the sound and let the dog listen to it. Repeat this until the dog no longer
barks at the sound of thunder.
- Change the environment (as mentioned above).
- Mask outside noise with a radio, CD, or television.
- Use shock or citronella spray collars if necessary.
To prevent this type of barking, socialize your dog well when it is young. Take it
places and get it used to all types of people, sounds and other animals. This will make
your dog better adjusted and less likely to develop behavior problems such as barking.
Barking When Left Alone
Dogs are social by nature and some do not do well when they are left alone. This may be
because they hear noises, see strangers, are locked in a crate, or simply because they
miss their owner. When any of the above occur, some dogs may begin barking to the distress
of the owner and their neighbors. Listed below are some ways to deal with this type of
barking problem:
- Leave the house as usual, sneak back and yell NO! from a hiding place where the dog
cannot see you. This may be difficult and must be consistent in order for the dog to
understand not to bark.
- Leave for short periods of time and reward the dog when he is quiet. Then gradually
increase your time away until the dog is quiet the entire time you are gone. This must be
consistent - you cannot skip a day and allow the dog to bark. If the dog begins barking
while you are gone, then decrease the time you are away until the dog stays quiet while
alone.
- Provide the dog with something to do while you are away - a good example is to stuff a
hollow bone or Kong toy with cheese and/or dog treats. This will usually keep the dog busy
for hours. Also, leaving the radio or TV on while you are away may catch the dog’s
attention and keep him from feeling alone and anxious.
- Exercise the dog before you leave - this will tire it out and then it will be less
likely to exhibit bad behavior, such as barking.
- Use a shock or citronella collar if necessary.
To prevent this type of barking when the dog is alone, leave the dog in a crate, it
will be less likely to see something to make it bark. Also ignore the dog for 10 minutes
before you leave and after you return home. Do not make your homecoming emotional and the
dog will be less anxious when you are gone.
Rewarding Barking Unintentionally
Very often owners unknowingly reward the dog for barking. If a dog barks while in a
crate and the owner lets the dog out, it is learning to bark for attention. Or if the dog
whines and the owner says "what’s wrong" or "hush!" the dog is
getting attention and it may begin barking for more. These rewards that the owner is
giving the dog will make the bad behavior reoccur. Some ways to deal with this type of
barking are as follows:
- Ignore all bad behavior. This must be consistent in order for the barking to stop. Never
give attention to the dog if it is doing something you do not want it to do.
- Reward the dog when it is quiet. If it starts barking, give a command - such as sit -
and then reward with petting or treats.
- Interrupt the barking dog and teach it to do something else, like play fetch or chew a
bone.
- Shock collars will work, but may be a little severe in this case.
- Spend at least 10 minutes a day with your dog giving it your undivided attention. This
may help the dog feel like it does not need to get your attention by barking.
To prevent this type of barking, avoid giving your dog attention whenever it exhibits
bad behavior. Also spending time with your dog will make it less needy of your attention
and therefore, it may not feel the need to bark.
Aggressive Barking
Sometimes a dog may bark out of aggression. If it is barking or growling at children,
strangers, or to protect its possessions (toys, food, etc.) then the dog may be showing
aggression. The body language of an aggressive dog consists of erect ears, direct eye
contact, head held high, hackles raised, and tense body posture. It may also be growling
or barking with its lips curled and teeth showing. If this is your dog’s problem,
then it needs treatment for aggression in order to control the barking. Contact your local
veterinarian for further information on how to treat your dog’s aggression.
Summary
These are five of the most common reasons that dogs bark. As a last resort surgical
debarking can be performed by your veterinarian, however this is not always effective and
is not recommended. Drugs are also available, but are rarely used to treat excessive
barking. To effectively control barking, every dog should be rewarded when they are quiet
and exhibiting good behavior. Most importantly, your dog should be given daily exercise
and attention. This in itself, will create happy dogs and help prevent behavior problems.
If you have further questions on dog behavior problems, contact your local veterinarian.
For more advice on behavior problems you can contact:
American College of Veterinary Behaviorists, c/o Dr. Kathleen Houpt,
Department of Physiology, Cornell University, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ithaca, NY
14853
ADDITIONAL SOURCES
- Volhard, Jack, and Melissa Bartlett. What All Good Dogs Should Know The Sensible Way
To Train. New York: Macmillan, 1991.
- Benjamin, Carol Lea. Dog Problems. New York: Howell, 1989.
- Dunbar, Ian. Behavior Booklets: Barking. California: Oakland, 1985
- Hart, Benjamin L., and Lynette A. Hart. Canine and Feline Behavioral Therapy.
Philadelphia: Lea & Febiger, 1985.
- Kilcommons, Brian, and Sarah Wilson. The Kilcommons Way to a Perfect Relationship
Good Owners, Great Dogs, a Training Manual For Humans and Their Canine Companions. New
York: Warner Books, 1992.
- Morris, Desmond. Dogwatching. Why Dogs Bark and Everything Else You Ever Wanted to
Know. New York: Crown Publishers, 1986.
- http://www.access.digex.net/~spca/barker.html
by Lisa Boyd-Spalding, Pam Fuller, and Rebecca Huber
According to the American Hospital Association (AAHA), inappropriate elimination is the
most common behavioral problem seen in cats. This is also referred to as feline house
soiling and includes urinating and/or defecating outside of the litter box. Any sudden
change in a cat's litter box habits indicates
that something is wrong. The problem could be medical or behavioral so both of these
possibilities should be considered.
It is best to rule out medical problems first. The cat should receive a thorough
medical exam by your veterinarian. There are a number of physical problems that could
result in your cat not using the litter box, including diseases of the bladder or lower
urinary tract, diabetes or even food allergies. Some of these diseases, such as feline
lower urinary tract disease can be life threatening so they should be addressed
immediately. Once medical problems have been ruled out, then behavioral causes need to be
considered.
The first step in treating a behavioral problem is to identify the cause of the animal's behavior. Cats are particularly sensitive to
change, so any disruption in their environment or routine can result in behavioral
problems. Your veterinarian or behaviorist will want to sit down with you and take a
complete history of your pet. This will include questions on when the behavior started,
any changes in the routine of the pet or the household and what you have done so far to
try to correct the behavior.
Inappropriate elimination can be categorized as either spraying of urine or squatting
to urinate or defecate. Spraying is usually related to marking territory. Both male and
female cats will do this. When a cat sprays it stands with its legs straight, holds its
tail up and urinates on upright surfaces such as walls, doors or furniture. This
urine-marking behavior is usually related to territorial, competitive or sexual drives.
Another form of inappropriate elimination is described as squatting. The cat will hold
its tail parallel to the floor and urinate or defecate on a horizontal surface such as the
floor, carpet, the bed or in the bathtub.
What to do if your cat is spraying?
Neutering a male cat by six months of age can often keep this problem from occurring.
However, altered male and female cats may spray in response to changes or upsets in the
environment or household routine. Unneutered male cats will almost always spray to mark
their territory. When a neutered cat sprays it is usually in response to an aggressive or
competitive relationship between two or more cats. If a new cat is introduced into a
household the resident cat may spray to establish territorial rights. Sometimes even the
suggestion that another cat has invaded its territory can cause a cat to spray. This may
happen if another cat owner visits with the smell of his or her pet on their clothing. One
fact seems to hold true, the more cats in a household, the more likely that spraying
behavior will take place. Indoor cats may react to the sight or scent of an outdoor cat
that visits the area around the house.
Once you have identified the cause, you can try to eliminate it or change the cats
response to it. If the cat is spraying in one particular area, you can keep the cat from
that area by closing doors or creating barriers around the area. Be sure to thoroughly
clean an area where the cat has eliminated with an odor neutralizer made specifically for
cat urine odors, such as Elimin-odor or Outright Stain and Odor Remover available from
your veterinarian. Avoid using ammonia based products. Cats are attracted to the smell of
their urine and will often use the same area again and again. If your cat is spraying in
reaction to the sight of outdoor cats you may need to close draperies or keep the cat from
rooms of the house where it can see outdoors. When spraying behavior is brought on by
introducing a new cat into the household, this behavior usually diminishes as the cats
become used to each other. Or reintroduce more gradually.
What to do if your cat is squatting?
Normal elimination in cats involves digging in loose materials, eliminating, then
covering up the waste. Cats are particular about the types of litter they prefer. The
smell and texture of the litter is very important. If you change brands of litter,
introduce the new type gradually over a 5-7 day period. Some cats will avoid litters with
heavy deodorizers or perfumes. If you observe your cat standing on the edge of the
litterbox or eliminating just outside of the box, it is probably trying to avoid touching
the objectionable litter. A cat may continue using a litter it doesn't like until it discovers something better such as
the carpet or your bed. Always be sure that the litterbox is kept clean. Many cats are
very particular about cleanliness and won't use
a box that contains accumulated waste or that has an unpleasant odor.
If a new cat is added to the household, be sure to provide a litter box for each
animal. If one cat is intimidated by another it may avoid a box that has the smell of the
other cat. Separate litter boxes should be placed far enough apart so that each cat feels
secure in his own area. The location of the litterbox can also be a factor in your cats
refusal to use it. Keep the box in a quiet place, away from noise and traffic. Some cats
are shy about eliminating and like privacy. However, be sure that the box is in a
convenient location and that it is always accessible to your cat, this may involve having
two boxes in different areas of the house. Also, locate the box away from spots where the
cat eats and sleeps since a cat doesn't like to
eliminate near these areas. If a cat is new to your home it may hide for a few days so you
will want to place a litterbox near its hiding place so it will not be frightened away
from using the box. Kittens have small bladders and will need to go more often. They
sometimes don't make it to the box in time, so
be patient, they will grow out of this.
Do's and Don'ts
It is very important to address the problem of eliminating outside of the box
immediately. You should begin treatment as soon as you recognize the problem since this
behavior may quickly turn into a habit. Treatment may require isolating the cat in a small
room with the litter box until it starts to use the box again. Once it has gone back to
using the box regularly you can gradually give your cat access to other areas of the
house. Whatever the problem, do not use punishment to try to correct it. This will only
cause the cat to be afraid of you and of the box. You don't want to make the experience of using the litterbox
a negative one so you should never do anything that the cat considers as unpleasant near
the box. Don't use the litterbox as a place to
catch the cat for medication. Never rub the cat's
nose in its waste if it misses the box. This will only confuse the cat and may lead to
further trouble. Be sure to thoroughly clean and use an odor neutralizer on an area that
the cat has used for elimination. Despite your best efforts to remove and neutralize the
odor from a spot the cat may continue to be attracted to that area. There are a number of
things you can do to make the spot less desirable to the cat.
… Cover the area with a plastic drop cloth
or aluminum foil. Cats do not like urine to splash on them.
… Place a lemon scented air freshener in the
area, cats often don't like the lemon smell.
… Place food or water bowls on the spot.
… If he is using the bath tub, leave a few
inches of water in the tub.
… Place the litter box on the spot and as
the cat uses the box keep moving it gradually away from the area until it is in the
appropriate place.
… Place booby traps, such as an upside down
mouse trap, on the spot.
… Apply two sided tape in the area since
cats do not like to walk on this.
Always keep the box clean and fresh smelling. Avoid cleaning the litterbox with
products containing ammonia or any other strong smelling disinfectants. A final word of
advice, be patient, with time and effort behavioral problems can be corrected.
Suggested Reading
Books:
My Cat is Driving Me Crazy, Grace McHatty and Tim Couzens
Carroll & Graf Publishers, Inc., New York
You & Your Cat, A Complete Guide to the Health, Care & Behavior of
Cats
David Taylor, B.V.M.S., F.R.C.V.S., Alfred A. Knopf Publishing, New York, 1992
Cat Behavior and Training, Veterinary Advice for Owners
Lowell Ackerman, D.V.M., T.F.H. Publications, Inc., 1996
Internet readings:
Litter Box Problems in Cats@ at;
http://www.southwind.net/ihac/int15.html
Other Cat Behavior Problems@ at;
http://www.acmepet.com/feline/fel_soil.html
Inappropriate Urination: by Gregory D. Bogard, D.V.M.
http://www.tomballnet.com/tomball/business/bogard/vetbhv31html
Problem Behavior in Cats@
Http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/text/faq/usenet/cats-faq/behavior/faq.html
Perfect Paws, Litterbox Training@ at;
http.//www.perfectpaws.com/litter.html
Pamphlets:
Litterbox Training/Household Destruction, by James & Kenneth, Center for
Applied Animal Behavior, Oakland, California
For more information please contact:
American College of Veterinary Behaviorists, c/o: Katherine Houpt, Dept. of Physiology,
Cornell University, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ithaca, N.Y. 14853
by Toni Daughtry, Linda Gregory-Duty, and Chris Lacy
Aggressive behavior is the second most common complaint among cat owners. Fortunately,
most aggressive behavior can be treated or managed. Following are some guidelines to stop
a cat from expressing these behaviors.
First, the type of aggression the cat is displaying must be identified. This article
will describe the characteristics of several types of aggression and make suggestions on
how an owner may alter these unwanted behaviors.
Predatorial Aggression
Predation, or hunting, is a normal behavior involving a series of searching or waiting
for prey, stalking, pouncing, grabbing, and biting a smaller species; usually a rodent or
bird. This is instinct and usually isn't related to hunger. Predatory behavior of the
indoor cat who stalks the family's caged bird or a family hamster can sometimes be stopped
by punishment.
A loud sound, such as a whistle or air horn, can be enough of a distraction to scare
some cats and discourage predatory behavior towards small animals in the home. A water
pistol or plant mister may be enough to discourage some cats. Placing small animal cages
out of reach is. I f the cat hunts frequently keeping it inside during the spring will
stop it from killing many young wild animals.
Play Aggression
Play is seen in different behaviors, including predation, fighting, and exploration.
During play, cats usually do not vocalize (hiss or growl) as they do during serious
aggression. Although they look aggressive, the attacks are generally silent. Usually the
play-aggressive cat is young, mainly under two years of age, although play aggressive
behavior can be shown by cats of any age. Play aggression usually occurs in single cat
homes or when other cats in the home are old and no longer playful. Play attacks often
occur as someone goes up or down stairs, steps out of the shower, moves under the covers,
or makes the bed. The cat often stalks or waits in ambush, then quickly and silently runs
toward a person. the cat may have an "evil" look on its face, grab the person
with its paws, and bite.
Sometimes owners are frightened by these playful aggressive cats because they
"look dangerous". Owners may try to cope with an attack by running, putting a
foot up, or trying to hit the cat. The cat will interpret this as mutual play.
Playfully aggressive cats are usually very active, and restricting a cat's activity or
isolating the cat will probably worsen the problem because the cat will then be more
stimulated to play when released. Playful animals must be encouraged to play. If the owner
tries to avoid or suppress a cat's play, the problem may get worse or be exhibited in
other ways. The owner should start appropriate play several times a day using an object or
toy that evokes an energetic response. Toys on strings that can be pulled and wiggled are
most effective, as are ping-pong balls or wads of paper that can be tossed and batted
around. Supplying small toys that the cat enjoys carrying and playing with, may occupy it
during times when the owner is absent. Paper bags of different sizes can be used for the
cat to explore. Allowing access to a window will also allow the cat to look out and
entertain itself during the day. Avoid ribbons from gift packages as these are sometimes
ingested and can cause serious medical problems. It is most important that Play-wrestling
using hands or feet be discouraged since this type of play encourages the cat to grab and
bite at flesh.
If the cat's playful attacks can be predicted, the aggressive play could be directed to
a moving toy. For example, before going downstairs, a toy could be thrown that the cat
likes to chase; or wiggle a soft rope before stepping out of the shower. These tactics can
be used at other "attack" areas of the home.
Proper punishment timed right and of the right intensity may help in the stop
aggressive play. It should not be the only technique used. For punishment to be effective,
it must be applied every time the cat begins to engage in the behavior. A startling noise,
such as a whistle or a canister of compressed air or squirt of water does this quite well.
the owner may need to carry the noise maker constantly for a few days and remember to use
it as the attack occurs. This will probably only need to be used of a short duration.
Another solution to pay aggression, especially if it is with a kitten, is to get another
cat about the same age so they can play together.
Fear or Defensive Aggression
When a cat is frightened and defends itself from an animal or person, it will become
aggressive. Defensive aggression may be shown, for instance, when a dog or person corners
a cat. The cat may crouch, with its ears flat against its head, hair standing up, and
scratching with its back feet. The animal may also be hissing or spitting. the cat feels
it has no way out and this is its way of saying "don't came any closer or I'll
attack".
The owners should avoid rough handling of the cat and any fearful experiences. The best
way to deal with this is to avoid the cat until it becomes less afraid, don't try to pick
up or comfort it. It should be left alone until relaxed enough to play, explore, or show
affection. sometimes it may take several hours for the cat to relax. Just give it that
time alone and give the animal special treats to reward it for coming close and allowing
itself to be touched.
If the cat is defensive and aggressive to a person, the treatment that is most
effective is for the person to minimize or avoid all behavior that frightens the cat, but
at the same time encourage the cat to be non-fearful. One way to lesson a cat's fear of a
person is to link the person to being fed. the person should be in the same room with the
cat while it eats. Slowly each time the cat is fed the person should move closer until the
cat is eating right next to the person. Then the person can begin to occupy the cat in
proper play. Wiggling a rope along the floor or tossing a toy the cat enjoys. Again take
your time, don't rush the cat, and remember it may take several weeks to get to the play
stage. Cats learn everyday so expose the cat to many different thing, such as car rides,
carriers, noises, and people. This is especially helpful when the cat is young.
Territorial Aggression
Territorial aggression may develop between cats in the home. One cat is the aggressor,
the other is the victim. The aggressive behavior begins with hissing and growling;
progresses to swatting, and relentless pursuit; and ultimately involves attacking and
fighting. the victim becomes more afraid of the aggressive cat. It may hide on the highest
shelves in the home, in closets, only coming out when the aggressive cat is not around.
sometimes elimination problems occur because the fearful cat is afraid to leave its hiding
place.
Territorial aggression can occur between litter mates, offspring, and parent, or even
cats that have lived together for some time. However, territorial aggression usually
begins when one or both cats are between the ages of one and three. Do not confuse
territorial aggression with defensive aggression. Territorial aggression usually entails
chasing and relentless pursuit, and may involve biting and scratching.
Sometimes by giving one cat a larger living area may help or allowing one cat access to
the outdoors. Restricting the cats to separate parts of the house or yard so they don't
encounter each other may also help. If these things don't work or the owner is unable to
handle the situation, then finding one of the cats another home is the best solution.
Territorial aggressive cats often do well in a single cat home. It's a hard decision to
make but with guidance and care a new loving home can be found.
Intermale Aggression
Intermale aggression is fighting between adult intact male cats. As male cats reach
adulthood, they may begin challenging one another. Non-neutered males that roam often
engage in ritualistic threats as well as real fights. The cats sit or stand very stiffly
and stare at each other. They rotate their heads slowly to a 45-degree angle and turn
their ears so that the backs of the ears face forward. All this and very loud howling and
growling are involved. Eventually one cat will leave very slowly, or one or both will
attack. At times an attack will only consist of one bite, but because cat bites often
become infected a single bite can be serious.
Castration usually stops intermale fighting, especially if both of the involved males
are neutered. However, a small percent of castrated males will still engage in this
behavior. there are medications which sometimes suppress the cat's desire to engage in
intermale aggression, but when the drug is stopped the aggression may return. A
veterinarian can give advise on the proper use of drugs.
Redirected Aggression
The cat is let in from outside, the owner picks it up and for no apparent reason the
cat bites. This is redirected aggression. It can occur in otherwise very affectionate and
playful cats and between cats who have been living happily together for years. Redirected
aggression is caused by the cat being aroused and in an aggressive state. The best thing
to do is to wait for the cat to approach someone or show affection before engaging in any
activity with the cat. Wait until the cat is involved in another behavior such as
grooming, playing, or eating to play with the animal.
If the aggression is directed at two cats that have been friends and suddenly are
bitter enemies, something may have occurred while you were away. Something that frightened
one of the cats and caused it to attack the other cat. This can be treated as well.
Basically they need to be re-accustomed to each other again. To start, they need to be
separated so they cannot see each other. Then begin by feeding them at opposite ends of a
room. if they are far enough apart and both are occupied with eating they can see each
other in a non-aggressive state. Slowly, over several days or weeks the food dishes can be
moved closer. Eventually, after eating, the cats can spend more time together. This must
be done slowly so that neither cat is fearful nor defensive to the other.
Petting or Overstimulating Aggression
Cats vary in how much or when they like to be petted or even held. Some enjoy being
held, carried, cradled, hugged, or petted, while others simply tolerate it. Some don't
mind being petted but hate being held. When a cat nips or lightly bites while being
petted, it's saying to stop petting it. Becoming restless or flattening its ears, or
twitching its tail are also signs that the cat is unhappy.
If the cat doesn't like to be held, pet, cuddled, or any other form of affection it may
show affection in other ways. It could follow its owner from room to room, or sleep on its
owners bed, or sit on its owners lap. These are the ways it prefers to be affectionate.
Hitting the cat or tapping it on the nose will not teach it to accept affection, it may
cause the cat to become defensive and perhaps retaliate more seriously. Be observant.
Realizing when, how, and how much affection the cat wants can bring the owner closer to
the cat.
Conclusion
Aggression may occur in any household and at any time in a cat's life. These
aggressions can usually be handled by an understanding and patient owner. The procedures
may take time to change how the cat reacts but in the end the owner will have a loving
friend. For further advice or counseling contact a local veterinarian.
by Angelia Berry, Stephanie Morris, and Susie
Thompson
PROBLEM: CLAWING FURNITURE AND DRAPES
BEHAVIOR:
- conditioning claws by scratching on objects where the outer sheath is removed
- marking their territory
- attracting a mate
- continuing after declawing
SOLUTIONS:
- supply the cat with an ideal scratching post, a sturdy one-foot log with the bark
removed or an old piece of loose carpeting or fabric:
- place in an area where the cat plays, sleeps, or eats
- introduce the cat to the post when it is a kitten
- when used, reward the cat with a piece of food or a cat treat
- place toys at scratch post so cat thinks of it as a fun place to be
- use a product called "soft paws," a plastic covering placed over the outside
layer of the claw after talking to the veterinarian
- clip claws regularly
- surgical declawing as a last resort
PROBLEM: WOOLSUCKING OR CHEWING
BEHAVIOR:
- a compulsive behavior, particularly in Siamese and Burmese cats, which may lead to a
buildup of hair causing a blockage in the intestines, caused by:
- kittens leaving the mother too soon
- maladaption to stress
- under nourishment
- curiosity or playing in young kittens
SOLUTIONS:
- leave kittens with mother for twelve weeks
- provide other things for the cat to chew on, such as a sock with a ball in it or a cat
toy
- use drug therapy after consulting the veterinarian
- use a foul-tasting substance on chewed items, such as "Ro-Pel" or "Bitter
Anti-Chew Spray," or any such item which does not contain ammonia
PROBLEM: EATING HOUSE PLANTS
BEHAVIOR:
- a dangerous and destructive habit used as:
- a quick source of digestible vitamins
- a cure for boredom
- a relief for stress
- a play method
SOLUTIONS:
- provide the cat with a small pot with grass or catnip, which can be found in a pet shop
or grown at home
- use a bad smell or taste, such as RoPel," "Bitter Anti-Chew Spray" or
Tabasco sauce, which provides a bad taste as well as smelling bad
- prevent access to plants by putting up barriers or scat mats
- squirt with a water pistol as the behavior occurs
- provide other things for the cat to do such as toys to distract them
PROBLEM: SPRAYING AND INAPPROPRIATE ELIMINATION
BEHAVIOR:
- frequently spray on vertical objects such as furniture or walls, usually more common in
males than females, used to:
- tell an invader that this is their territory
- announce to a male that an unspayed female is in heat
- react to stress
SOLUTIONS:
- castrate a male cat at an early age
- determine what is causing the cat to be upset and try to change it, such as separating a
new cat from an old cat, or boarding a cat for several weeks before moving him
- use drug therapy after consulting a veterinarian
- confine the cat to small area and gradually enlarging the space
- neutralize the odor with "Cat-Off," "F.O.N. Spray," "Odor
Eliminator" or enzyme detergent
- keep the litter box clean
- do not disturb the cat while he is in the litter box
- use multiple litter boxes when more than one cat lives in the household
- use the litter box as intended, not for unpleasant experiences such as the taking of
medicine
PROBLEM: MUTILATING SELF
BEHAVIOR:
- a compulsive behavior of overgrooming where the desire to alleviate stress is stronger
than the pain created by licking and chewing of self
SOLUTIONS:
- identify and if possible remove whatever may be stressing the cat: a new cat, a new
baby, a new house, or any stranger introduced to the household
- drug therapy after consulting a veterinarian
- give the cat interactive toys
For further information see:
- Cat Behavior and Training: Veterinary Advice for Owners, Lowell Ackerman, T.F.H.
Publications, Neptune City, NJ., 1996.
- Do cats need shrinks? Cat behavior explained, Peter Neville, Castle Books,
Edison, NJ., 1994.
- Veterinary Aspects of Feline Behavior, Bonnie Beaver, C.V. Mosby Company, St.
Louis, MO, 1980.
|
